Monday, November 22, 2010

Czesky Krumlov


We spent less than 48 hours in the town of Czesky Krumlov but that was enough time to fall in love with this quaint, cobble-stone clad community dotted with red-roofed houses and churches with pointy steeples, famous for its awe-inspiring castle with an awe-inspiring view.

During our morning exploration, we found our favorite jelly donuts, blue skies, remarkable churches and a river winding through this colorful town.
The castle was the main attraction and the real reason any tourist would stop here so naturally, we signed up for a tour. However, I remember very little about that tour and much more about our time exploring beforehand. We wandered the streets mesmerized by the natural beauty of the town and feeling very much like locals out for a stroll, we stopped by the river and skipped rocks. When I think of Czesky Krumlov, I don't think of the castle. I think of skipping rocks. Sure the castle was pretty incredible and was guarded by a freaking bear:
but although Yogi was pretty unique and learning how they used to literally protect the castle with bears was fascinating, I have a much more vivid memory of the rocks. Such a simple act and yet, so relaxing and peaceful. After the hustle and bustle of Berlin and Prague, this stop in Czesky Krumlov was a needed pause and breathe of fresh air. We didn't have to walk with our elbows out as we fought our way through crowded streets. We could stroll. We didn't hear the typical clammering of obnoxious kids and tourists. We heard the birds. We didn't feel like tourists. We felt like locals.

Perhaps this is why skipping rocks made such an impression on me. It was so ordinary and yet, so pleasant. We must have hung out by the river for a good hour and despite literally throwing out my arm, I'm so grateful for that hour spent simply in nature. We needed it. Because although the old castles and churches and museums are incredible in Europe, our God and His creation is even more incredible. The buildings and the architecture made us stop and snap pictures but we were just as captivated by the blue sky with puffy white clouds; we were just as amazed by the rolling grassy hills and the sounds of the rushing river and chirping birds.

We must not have been allowed to take pictures inside the castle because I have none. I have few memories of the rooms inside the castle. In fact, all I wrote down about the time inside was, "Trent dared me to touch a bear but I got caught." I don't even remember that moment which is actually surprising because I usually HATE getting in trouble. The inside of the catle didn't make an impression but the views from the castle garden were pretty unforgettable:
We were clearly more struck by the simple beauty of this city than the elaborate furnishings of a fancy castle. There is much evidence that Christians have lived here for quite some time:
and I couldn't help but imagine how those believers must have marveled at God's hand as they strolled the streets of their town. I imagine they were impressed by the churches but surely the beauty in nature around them captivated them more.
There are a few other snapshots in this town that left an impression on me. One was when Trent befriended a local musician. Yes, that is Trent's dead skunk around the man's neck:
Another distinct memory was eating a snack on this bench where Trent is sitting:
Trent had just told me about how often people will make a witty comment and then expect people to laugh so they'll take a drink of whatever they're drinking right after saying a punch line. So Trent likes to wait to laugh until the person has taken a big drink and then does a loud, obnoxious laugh. I told him that I didn't think I ever did that. However, as we sat on this bench, I said something that I thought was clever and sure enough, took a swig of water as I waited for Trent to laugh. He held his laughter and then laughed so loud and fake that water came spewing out of my mouth. Well played bro.

Feeling like locals, we decided to cook our own dinner at the hostel and made spaghetti with pepperonis. Accidentally. It actually turned out to be okay once Trent got the can of sauce open using only a dull butter knife. One of my most distinct memories came a few hours later in the middle of the night.

Trent and I were fast asleep in our bunks with 4 other beds in the room still unoccupied. Until 3 am. At 3 AM 4 very large, very loud, very drunk Dutch men stumbled into the room swearing and laughing and causing quite a ruckus. They eventually got into beds but then proceeded to snore so loudly it was nearly impossible to sleep. I vaguely remember Trent saying something loudly to try to wake them. An hour later I had a traumatic experience. I had used the restroom and when I returned to the dark room, I literally bumped chest to chest with a 7 foot, drunk Dutch man wearing only his undies. "Ahh! Sorry, sir." I ducked my head in shame and scurried to my bunk, mortified and disgusted.

The next morning we had to catch a train to Vienna. We were running late. So we were literally running. I hadn't realized how hilly the town was until I was sprinting up hills with my giant backpack, sweat pouring down my face. We barely made it. Once we were safely aboard, we waved goodbye to quiet Czesky Krumlov feeling rested and peaceful and reminded of how creative our God is.

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